Photos and videos at the end.
After breakfast, I wandered around the nearby Tibetan market for a while. An amazing variety of goods for sale. It’s incredible that trade like this has been carried on here for thousands of years, flourishing with the Silk Road, and continuing to this day. Sure the goods on offer have changed, but the spirit and purpose is probably the same as it ever was. The spices, clothes, blankets and shoes are still here but among them are solar panels. watches and electronics.
I recognised the Tibetan script on some of the shops. I’d done some online Tibetan lessons for a while with a Tibetan living in India. Unfortunately, I didn’t put in the work to learn the language as I intended. It was fiendishly difficult.
The people here are very respectful, and barely mark my presence, which is a wonderful thing. It feels safe but I’m not under any illusions that there isn’t an undertow here, as there is everywhere, unfortunately. I was a bit intimidated when a group guys in black uniforms, with black steel helmets and guns, got out of a van as I passed. I think they were a security detail collecting cash from the market, but I have no idea. I didn’t want to ask or photograph.
Another aspect I’ve become aware of is the apparent lack of animals or birds here, domestic or wild. I had lunch by the river, or rather by a wide and muddy overflow canal. Usually sitting down having lunch I expect to see or hear birds, but absolutely nothing.
My original plan for the day was to visit the Kumbum Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery with over 800 monks. But it’s a 40 minute drive from the city. I asked the hotel receptionist about a taxi and the cost would be 800-900 yuan (some NZ$200). I decided to pass, as the yellow hat monks there are an offshoot of a monastery in Lhasa that l’ll likely visit. Instead, I decided to walk across the city to the ancient Tibetan temple on Nanshun mountain.
As I wandered, I came to notice some exquisite carvings on a building that were different to other buildings in the street. As I went round the corner, there was an inviting little alley, with the sound of a male singing voice in a call to prayer. So when I went in, I was met with the courtyard of the exquisite Beiguan Mosque (I found out later). I was just in time for the lunchtime prayers, so I hung around as the faithful filed in. It was quite the experience.
I headed on, through the markets outside Dungguan Mosque, through differing neighbourhoods, altering bustle and quiet. Eventually up Nanshun mountain and down to the Nanshun Buddhist temple. The path took me to the rear of the temple, but there was no way in. It was 4.15pm and I read that the temple closed at 5pm. Rather than backtracking, I made my way along overgrown paths, climbed a metal fence into the car park of a residential building and down to the road. Unfortunately, the temple was closed and looked like it had been for some time. Forlorn, high on a hill.
I made my way towards the central business district to experience the contrast with the outer suburbs. But by now it was 5pm and I had a train to catch. I was still some 8km away from hotel where I had left my rucksack. So I headed on a more direct route back, to grab some dinner near the hotel before collecting my bag. I’d walked 26km that day and would have loved to have a shower before I headed for the train but the hotel wouldn’t rent a room for an hour.
Over to the imposing railway station at the appointed 8pm at entrance #4. The ticker dealer showed up after a while and stayed while I did the passport, Tibet permit and ticket check and security bag scan at the station entrance. Once inside, it took a bit of figuring out what was the departure time, platform gate, carriage, compartment and berth but I got there in the end. The railway station was huge and very crowded, but most people were seated waiting for their trains.
My passport and Tibet permit were again checked at the entrance to the platform and for a third time by a guard at the door of my carriage. There was a lot of excitement and nervous energy from the crowd as we queued at the platform gate. When we were let on the platform people were practically running to their allocated carriage. I got caught up in that. Not sure why, as getting there early or late wouldn’t have made a difference. My berths was preallocated.
By now it was 11:30pm and I was ready for sleep. I lay there for a while to enjoy the feeling of finally being here, on the train and on my was to Lhasa. There is something really old school and exciting about taking a sleeper train, winding its way into the night, getting us there while we sleep.
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